Oysters, Clams & Cockles

In this weeks roundup: we’re sharing a few great reads we’ve come across like how the monks shaped Burgundy as we know it and what really sets French oak apart from American oak. There’s also a spotlight on a West Village seafood restaurant that’s a must visit.

On the events side of things: Carnitas Ramirez & SuperVinoBros are throwing a party at Cellar 36, and Ruffian’s GM Patrick Cournot is hosting a Greek wine class that feels like the perfect midweek outing. And, of course, another cartoon by the very, very, very talented Cerise Zelenetz.

PS: If you’re a restaurant, wine bar, wine shop, basically any wine-adjacent business hiring and want us to share it here (doesn’t have to be NY-specific), email us at [email protected] to be included in an upcoming newsletter.

The Monks Who Built Burgundy

To learn about wine is to learn about history, and in Burgundy, that history starts with the monks. Long before the Dukes, they mapped out the region’s vineyards, defined the idea of terroir, and shaped the wines we still drink today. This article provides a look at how their devotion, patience, and understanding of the land created the foundations for one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions.

What's the Difference Between French and American Oak in Wine?

The type of oak a winemaker chooses isn’t just about barrels, it’s about shaping a wine’s personality. French or American? Tight-grained or wide? Toasted or not? This piece explores how these choices influence everything from texture to aroma and why understanding oak is key to understanding more of what shows up in your glass.

Carnitas Ramirez x SuperVinoBros @ Cellar 36

Carnitas Ramirez, opened by the team behind Taqueria Ramirez in Greenpoint, is teaming up with SuperVinoBros at one of our favorite wine bars, Cellar 36. A lot of favorites coming together to throw a party. Super, super fun!

• Date: Thursday, July 17th

• Time: 6.00pm - most likely very, very late

• Location: Cellar 36, 36 Market Street, New York, NY 10002

• Additional Information: here!

Greek Wine Class @ Ruffian

Ruffian’s GM and Beverage Director, Patrick Cournot, is hosting a class with four Greek wines to taste and talk about. We haven’t made it to one of these yet, but Ruffian is a beautiful wine bar, Patrick’s one of the best and their wine selection is always spot on. Learning from him in an intimate setting feels like the perfect midweek outing.

• Date: Wednesday, July 23rd

• Time: 6.00pm start time!

• Cost: $50 per person

• Location: Ruffian, 125 E 7th St, New York, NY 10009

• Additional Information: here!

On one of those brutally hot, 100-degree days when the sidewalk felt like it might melt, I floated the idea of French food to my girlfriend. She gave me a look that said, you’re out of your mind, and reminded me that Beef Bourguignon probably isn’t ideal in sauna-like weather. We tossed around a few other ideas and eventually landed on Crevette, a seafood-leaning restaurant in the West Village that had been on my radar for a while.

Opened by Patricia Howard and Ed Szymanski, the duo behind Dame and Lords, Crevette sits on a charming corner of 6th Avenue and Downing Street, with large windows that flood the space with light. Had the weather not been channeling August in Miami, the sidewalk seating would’ve been the perfect spot to have too many oysters and just enough wine.

Chartreuse has quickly become a favorite of mine ever since a late night at a friend’s restaurant in Paris, so we kicked things off with the Bijou Martini (Tarragon Gin, Green Chartreuse, and Sweet Vermouth). It was every bit as strong as you’d expect, maybe stronger, but distinctive and memorable. A large painting by Michael McGregor, a favorite of mine, anchors the room and adds to its warmth and charm.

As expected from Patricia and Ed, the wine list is purely excellent. You’ll find bottles like Clos Siguier’s Les Camilles for just $48 alongside more expensive options like Sylvain Pataille’s Chardonnay Rose for $180. We went with the 2021 Jean-Marie Berrux ‘Le Petit Têtu,’ which felt spot on for both the food and the weather.

Other bottles we had our eye on: Filipa Pato’s ‘Nossa Calcário’ Bical, Sylvain Pataille’s Marsannay Chardonnay Rosé, De Sterlich’s ‘Abruzzo’ Trebbiano, Porta del Vento’s ‘Anfora’ Grillo, and Piero Busso’s ‘Mondino Barbaresco’ Nebbiolo.

Dishes not to miss: the Chilled Mussels with Salsa Brava, Sicilian Sashimi, Smoked Trout and Saffron Rillettes, Peekytoe Crab, and Grilled Golden Chicken. We didn’t go for the full menu the way we did at Lei, so I’m sure there are plenty of other hits we have yet to try.

By Cerise Zelenetz

Other News & Other Stuff & Other Reads

• Chambers Street Wines, one of the best wine shops in the country, regularly releases special collections that are exceptionally well-priced and of wines that are very hard to come by. While you can find their offers on the website, many of these wines are one of ones. We highly recommend subscribing to their newsletter to know once the new collections drop.

• The wine glass we can’t live without: Gabriel-Glas. It’s on the pricier side, $35 per glass, but worth it if you’re after a high-end universal that isn’t a Zalto.

• Perfect wine to pair with oysters: Patrick Piuze Chablis "Coteau de Fontenay" 2022